CAPE TOWN FASHION WEEK 2023 ROUND-UP

Words by Jamal Grootboom | Images: AFI

Celebrating its 15th anniversary, AFI Cape Town Fashion Week saw designers from across the continent show their latest collections and give a glimpse into the future along with the current fashion climate.

The 3-day affair, from 23 to 25 March, returned to the Mother City at the CTICC after a 2-year hiatus with 18 designers alongside two masterclasses starring industry professionals from all sectors. This included fashion editors, designers and brand styling specialists who gave insights into how African fashion can impact the global market.

Looking at the collections shown, it’s clear that there are international trends which are still relevant to the local market. Similarly to what we've seen on the runway globally, bold colours, a move towards more occasionwear and print on print on print were some of the prominent takeaways.

Superbalist was there in the midst of it with all the local fashion elites. Here’s a breakdown of some of the collections, including highlights and insights from the two days we attended

The first day opened with multi-disciplinary artist Nyambo MasaMara under his Masa Mara label. The Rwandan-born designer’s collection had his signature complex and colourful prints mixed and matched in various ways. Where this collection shone is the use of various silhouettes. Jutting shoulder detailing, oversized coats and jackets along with menswear crop tops and overskirts echo the global move to clothing stepping outside of the gender binary. The collection was yet another elevation of his work with expert finishings that were fit to perfection.

The AFI Fastrack finalists also showed one look per designer. The year-long development programme helps aspiring local designers make an impact on the African fashion scene and be business savvy. Overall, the looks shown still gave student work, which isn’t inherently a bad thing. However, it does show there is much growth that needs to happen concerning having a unique point of view. This programme is promising and a great springboard for local talent since previous winners include fashion superstars such as Rich Mnisi and Thebe Magugu.

AFI's in-house brand House of Nala, headed by Fastrack finalist Keneoua Mhletswa, presented an occasion-focused collection for womenswear and elevated everyday wear for men. This was a strange combination since the collection was cohesive concerning the black and shades of red colour story. However, these two people are not going to the same event. We know men often don’t pull up with the same level of drip but at least in the collection, the two spectrums could have been more cohesive or complementary.

K.Moraba & Collective showcased everyday basics and simple suiting for menswear. This collection needed more attention with proper fitting and fabrics used since it seemed the necessary heft was missing. The womenswear featured everyday separates and flowy silhouettes which had the potential but needed a more unique take on them.

Chiip O Neal gave us a mix of resort wear with interesting takes on denim for men and women. The standout pieces included a denim dress with gold applique and a men's crop top paired with a skirt over straight-leg oversized jeans with the same treatment.

Occasion wear was the overarching theme for day two as well with many of the leaning away from more everyday pieces to flexible party and event attire that can be dressed up or down.

Kaylaamiel Creations prepared a slightly more mature and demurred collection filled with neutral tones with hints of mint, and flowy designs with A-line dresses mixed with structured suiting.

Imprint ZA by Mzukisi Mbane came in swinging, kicking off the show with a kids' traditional ensemble who performed and provided the soundtrack for his collection. The seasoned designer’s collection was a perfect showcase of how to tell a well-thought-out story through clothing. His signature geometric prints in various forms were still the main stars of the show. However, this time he opened with black and white looks which shifted into smaller prints with slight colour additions. He ended his show with a bold and bright mix of prints that he’s known for - this time in rich oranges paired with magnetic blues. Various silhouettes with asymmetrical applications are sprinkled throughout the show.

Thirst trap-core is one of the latest menswear trends that has been gaining a lot of traction. Palse shined when it came to pieces that were in this vain. Think sheer everywhere in relaxed-fit shirts and pants. Where things veered a bit was the loungewear-style satin shirts and pants, along with the suiting that needed a bit more attention to detail.

Kat Van Duinen closed out the second day with stunning occasion wear with bold bubble skirts, sultry double slip dresses, playful flared skirts and disco-ready bodysuits. It’s clear who the Kat Van Duinen woman is and where she’s going which is something often lost by many designers.

Overall, while it’s great that fashion week has returned there’s still a lot of work to be done when it comes to supporting local designers from the fashion council. It’s all good and well to show beautiful collections, but these clothes need to be accessible to everyday South Africans at a reasonable price point. A room full of mostly invited guests isn’t the only people that want to support local designers.