THE EVOLUTION OF THE WHITE SHIRT

Words: Foyin Ogunrombi | Photography: Luke Kuisis

You often hear that the white shirt is a wardrobe essential, so much so that we rarely stop to consider how it reached its status. From Vivienne Westwood’s pirate-inspired sleeves and Gianfranco Ferré’s big collars and cuffs to conceptual styles by Martin Margiela and the eco-friendly, avant-garde flair of Stella McCartney, the white shirt has taken on many forms in its lifespan.

Its prevalence in pop culture, as well as constant reinvention on the runway, shows that true staying power makes room for reimagination while remaining equally powerful in its original form. But where did it all start? Where did the white shirt come from and how long has it been around? How did it become an icon in women’s fashion? We did a little digging to find out.

1700s

Originally regarded as a symbol of high class and nobility for men, the white shirt of this era was worn with a jabot, a lace accessory laden with frills attached to the high neckline of a plain shirt.

1800s

By the early 1800s, the white shirt was far more refined and resembled what we know it as today. It was revolutionised by Beau Brummell, an English dandy whose tailored high-collared, white linen shirt became his signature look. At the turn of the 20th century, shirts became more affordable and accessible to the common man as typical business attire.

1900s

Fast forward to the mid-1900s and the likes of Coco Chanel, Katharine Hepburn, Ava Gardner and Lauren Bacall were wearing the white shirt too, introducing it to womenswear. A powerful move, given that more feminine pin-up dresses were growing in popularity. Wearing androgynous items was a form of defiance against social norms.

1960s and beyond

The androgynous appeal of the white shirt only continued to grow. Remember Prince giving his rendition of traditionally masculine attire by wearing it with ruffled jabots? And Hollywood’s impact was seen yet again with a sexier update in the movie Dirty Dancing, which saw the lead character, Baby, wearing the classic shirt tied at her waist. With Julia Roberts’ oversized version in Pretty Woman and Uma Thurman’s sleek and chic look in Pulp Fiction, the white shirt was quickly part of iconic fashion imagery, no matter its size.