THE FUSS ABOUT FUNCTIONAL FASHION

Words: Foyin Ogunrombi | Photography: Luke Kuisis

First, there was normcore, the minimalist fashion trend that allowed us to take pride in the banality of our wardrobes. Then, there was athleisure, the sporty-chic style that made it acceptable to wear leggings and sneakers every day without any intention of going to the gym. This made way for the rise of utility — a trend that isn’t exactly new, but presents a fresh chapter in functional, accessible fashion. When it comes to utility, we’re after practical, comfortable clothing that keeps it simple, aesthetically.

As the cost of living increases and the luxury of space becomes harder to sustain, we’ve been forced to reconsider the cost per wear of our garments — the more wear we can get out of them, the better. This is part of the appeal of utility: it offers a wardrobe designed to work hard for us. Utility borrows from the military trend with its use of muted colours, outdoorsy apparel and an emphasis on pockets, but has managed to adapt to the current needs of its wearers with a more feminine reinvention. This traditionally male-centric trend has been adopted by women’s fashion for the same reason as its popularity in men’s — it works, and it works well.

Contrary to outdated fashion definitions, men aren’t the only ones who like to be able to justify a fashion choice based on its use. Utility’s update on feminine fashion adapts the principles of practicality (read: pockets) to blouses, pleated skirts, flowing dresses and boilersuits. Fabrics are also lighter in weight, water-resistant and more resilient, further emphasising the importance of practicality.

What’s not to love about the muted hues seen on the runways of Chloé, Proenza Schouler and The Row? Utility thoroughly embraces these, which allows your wardrobe to complement statement updates such as animal-print accessories or neon shoes. The emphasis on pockets in cargo pants and boilersuits, as shown by Virgil Abloh for example, is also a sort of revolt against the aesthetic appeal — but general uselessness — of fake or shallow pockets that are usually prevalent in women’s fashion.

Outerwear such as trench coats and bomber jackets are alluring because of their balanced cost per wear and versatility in your wardrobe through the seasons. The essential hiker boot that has been used by blue-collar workers and the grungey-Tumblr generation alike also embraces utility. Hiking and work boots provide extra support and protection, while being fashion-forward and versatile. Other accessories such as bum bags, backpacks and utility belts also highlight the overarching theme of every component being useful, often for more than one reason.

Utility fashion has been, and will always be, rooted in efficiency, comfortability, versatility and just being downright effortlessly cool. It isn’t overthought or overstyled — in fact, the simpler, the better, with plenty of room left for innovation and adaptation. No longer is there a reason for fashion to either be practical or aesthetically appealing. We can have it both ways.