These sneakers have a lasting impact and are entwined in the cultural zeitgeist.
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Words by Lucinda Dordley | Images: Supplied
The Merriam-Webster Dictionary defines “iconic” as ‘widely known and acknowledged, especially for distinctive excellence’. Within the world of sneaker culture, it can be defined as a shoe that is excellent in three categories: storytelling, form and ability to connect a community.
As the years go by and sneakers go through various iterations and updates, their stories become richer, fuller and more captivating. Kicks have always been at the forefront of street style, where a culture of self-determination is what fuels individual style and connects a collective through common goals.
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The Nike Air Max is considered one of the most instantly recognisable and iconic sneakers in the world. Air technology was developed by Frank Rudy in 1977, a NASA aeronautical engineer who brought the concept of internal sole cushioning to Nike.
The Air Max 1 was born in 1988 and is the first Nike sneaker to showcase Air technology to the wearer. Tinker Hatfield, the designer of Air Max 1 was concerned that the customer would not understand what Air technology is if they could not see it for themselves.
The Air Max and its different versions are considered iconic shoes, and there is no shoe quite like it to the folk of the Western Cape’s Cape Flats area. Known as “bubblekoppe” - or “bubbleheads” in English - this nickname denotes the group’s love for Nike’s prolific Air technology. Here people across all age groups hustle to ensure they can get their hands on Air Max grails or recent releases.
The Air Max has evolved beyond a solid sneaker that offers comfort in Cape Town; it has evolved into a symbol of hope, determination and strength. Those who consider themselves “bubblekoppe” believe in the power of hustling your way to a better life, and their relationship with Air Max is representative of that.
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Did you know that Converse started as the Converse Rubber Corporation in 1908? The business started out making seasonal footwear such as galoshes, but decided to employ its staff full-time, and this led to some restructuring of its offerings. This is how Converse began producing athletic footwear.
The first Converse sneaker was made in 1917 and called the Non-Skid. It was specifically designed to have a diamond-patterned sole that offered a good grip on basketball courts. Since then, the Converse All-Star has become entrenched in many subcultures, becoming the shoe of choice for everyday individuals and celebrities alike.
The shoe experienced a resurgence in popularity in the 90s when Nirvana frontman Kurt Cobain said the All-Star was his preferred sneaker. The sneaker became a marker of the apathetic and disruptive grunge subculture. At one point, 60% of Americans owned a pair of Converse sneakers.
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One of adidas’ most iconic sneakers, the Stan Smith celebrated 50 years of popularity in 2023. This versatile sneaker was born from the mind of French tennis player Robert Haillet in the mid-60s. Its main aim was to be a comfortable, breathable sneaker that could be worn both on and off the court.
While the shoe was designed by Haillet, the sneaker didn’t gain popularity until it was re-branded by American tennis star Stan Smith in 1978. For a while, it was known as the “Stan Smith-Haillet”, but as its on-court appeal began to wane, its courtside demand grew.
By 1989, the sneaker was entered into the Guinness World Book Of Records for selling 22 million pairs that year.
While other adidas sneakers such as the Gazelle, Samba or Handball Spezial have become more popular over the past few years, Stan Smith’s simplicity and easy styling appeal still make it the preferred choice of many.
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Vans was started by brothers Paul Van Doren and Jim Van Doren along with partners Gordon Lee and Serge Delia who opened the business on March 16, 1966 in Anaheim, California. The partners set out to design sneakers that were the perfect complement to California’s skate culture. The brand was known for its quick turnaround time, with customers placing orders in the morning and receiving their kicks by lunchtime.
Customers could also give the brothers custom fabric to make their sneakers.
The Vans Authentic - also known as Style 44 - was the first shoe developed by the dynamic duo in the 1960s, and its sole was known to be sticky enough to provide grip when riding on a skateboard.
The sneakers shot to fame with the release of Vans Style 95, also known as the Era. This design had a padded collar and different colour combinations.
The Old Skool was Vans’ first skate shoe that incorporated leather panels for increased durability.
These kicks have surpassed its hometown notoriety and took over the world as THE ultimate skate shoe, keeping its legacy alive since the 1960s.
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The original 550 debuted in 1989 and made its mark on basketball courts from coast to coast. After its initial run, the 550 was filed away in the archives, before being reintroduced in limited-edition releases in late 2020.
It returned to the full-time lineup in 2021, quickly becoming a global fashion favourite. The 550’s low-top, streamlined silhouette offers a clean take on the heavy-duty designs of the late ‘80s, while the dependable leather upper construction is a classic look in any era.
Now the New Balance 550 enjoys its status as one of the most beloved shoes in the company’s catalogue.
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The world’s favourite dad sneaker was originally released in 2008 and was designed to provide ultimate comfort to runners and those on the go. The notion of “flash” inspired Hidenori Yamashita while designing the shoes, which he describes as a burst of action when a runner lands at the heel and pushes away at the toes.
The sneaker was released in 2020 and finally landed with its audience. With the resurgence of Y2K aesthetics and a desire for chunkier and more comfortable sneakers, the ASICS GEL-Kayano 14 was an instant hit.
Known for its sleek functionality and visual versatility, the ASICS GEL-Kayano is here to stay.