FROM 87 TO INFINITY

Words: Nhlanhla Masemola | Illustration: Keshia Chapman

Nike Air Max is one of the greatest sneaker lines in history. This would be a bold statement to make had the Air Max brand not been a household name for sneaker fans and fashion lovers alike. So what’s the secret to Nike’s Air Max success? Perhaps it’s a passion for revolutionising the sneaker experience by developing air technology in innovative ways with each new release? Or maybe it’s down to the varied action-packed colourways and creative details? Or all of the above – and much more. We share with you our complete Nike Air Max timeline.

1978

NIKE AIR TAILWIND

In the late 60s, former NASA engineer Marion Franklin Rudy left his career to pursue other creative industries. One of his most inspired ideas was placing small air bubbles in the soles of athletic shoes to soften the impact when walking. He pitched this idea to many shoe companies, but was rejected by all of them. Then in 1977, he presented his idea to Phil Knight, Nike’s co-founder. Knight took a liking to the air-cushioned prototype and the first shoe to feature Air cushioning soon became the 1978 Tailwind. Before hype was even a thing, the Tailwind was first released in limited quantities prior to its public release a year later.

1987

NIKE AIR MAX 1

Designed by Tinker Hatfield in 1987, the Nike Air Max 1 was the first sneaker to offer a window to the sole. Considered the father of the Air Max, Hatfield found his inspiration for the sneaker in the architecture of the Centre Pompidou during a visit to Paris, France. Trained as an architect himself, Hatfield was taken by the building’s inside-out design approach. This inspired him to expose the inner workings of the shoe and the visible Air window was created.

1990

AIR MAX 90

Originally named the Air Max 3, the 90 reworked the Air Max sneaker for the new decade. It’s easily one of the most recognisable Air Maxes with its distinct Infrared colourway. Hatfield wanted to showcase the new silhouette's bigger Air unit, which was why he gave the kicks fluid lines and colourful accents that perfectly highlighted the Air window and the shoe’s new look.

1991

NIKE AIR MAX 180

The Air Max 180 was the first-ever sneaker to feature 180 degrees of featured Air cushioning. This was brought to life by bonding the bold outsole directly to the Air unit and removing the foam underneath it. Naturally, this sneaker was one of the most difficult Air Max sneakers to create.

1993

NIKE AIR MAX 93

The Air Max 93, which was also known as the original Air Max 270, took the design of the Air Max 180 and gave us colourful Air units, a sock-like fit and more air. With each Air Max release, Nike was exposing more of the Air unit and slowly working up to having it wrapped around the heel. This new technique used to produce the 270-degree feature quickly changed what Nike could do with air.

1995

NIKE AIR MAX 95

1995 saw the release of the Air Max 95, bringing with it an overhaul of the Air Max line. The signature oversized tick was replaced with a subtle Swoosh and Air units were included at the forefoot. Designed by Sergio Lozano and oddly inspired by muscle fibres and flesh, the 95 was known for its tiered colourway with graphic strips decorating the upper.

1997

NIKE AIR MAX 97

Designed by Christian Tresser and inspired by droplets making ripples in a pond, the Air Max 97 is considered the darling of the sneaker world. While the OG colourway is often called the Silver Bullet, the hue was inspired by the aluminium and titanium sheen of mountain bikes.

1998

NIKE AIR MAX 98

If any Air Max encapsulates 90s fashion, it would be the Air Max 98. Uneven design and bold contrasting colours make this sneaker one of the most striking Nike releases. A noticeable deviation from the 97, the Air Max 98 was essentially a chunkier, less fluid version of its predecessor.

2003

NIKE AIR MAX 2003

The first significant drop of the 00s acted as a breath of fresh air after the chaotic visuals that came out of the late 90s. Clean, monochromatic and modest, the Nike Air Max 2003 designed by Lozano promised a sleeker future. To juxtapose the maximalist look of the Air Max cushioning, Nike went the minimalist direction with its upper. Instead of the loud colours and expressive designs of old, Nike was toned down with similar materials used in elite running shoes and football boots.

2006

NIKE AIR MAX 360

Three years later in 2006, the Nike Air Max 360 was built upon an Air unit that was visible from every angle, true to its name. The Air Max 360 was the culmination of 19 years of visible Air development. It was inevitable that Nike would release a shoe cushioned by it entirely.

2014

NIKE FLYKNIT AIR MAX

Similarly to 2006's Air Max 360, contrast was the flavour of the day for the Flyknit Air Max. The innovation came in the form of the dynamic and super-comfortable Max Air cushioning that made its debut in 2013, while the upper was constructed from lightweight Flyknit for a functional design. The perfect marriage of Nike’s ingenious technologies.

2017

NIKE VAPORMAX FLYKNIT

That innovative future Nike hinted at with the Air Max 2003 finally came 14 years later when the Flyknit VaporMax was released, designed by Kathy Gomez. The VaporMax was the first time the Air Unit stood alone as the sneaker’s sole. Combined with a Flyknit upper, the feel and fit of the VaporMax was simply like no other.

2018

NIKE AIR MAX 270

In 2018, Nike looked back to their early 90s designs to inspire something fresh. The result was the retro-yet-futuristic Nike Air Max 270 that managed to spark interest with the brand-new Gen Z customers. Air Max sneakers were adopted as a lifestyle staple, thanks to many years from being on the scene, and Nike alluded to this with the first Air Max that was intended specifically for casualwear from the jump.

2019

NIKE AIR MAX 720

The follow-up to the 270, the Air Max 720's out-of-this-world look and bulky Air unit came together to create one of the most exciting sneakers of the century. 2019's Air Max 720 represented yet another lifestyle Air Max drop and it was the first shoe in the brand's roster to ever feature a full-length unit. Essentially an evolution of 2018's 270, the 720 takes things up a notch with the most bounce of any Air Max shoe, thanks to an Air unit that stands 38mm high. As for the shoe's upper, Nike took inspiration from nature.

2020

NIKE AIR MAX 2090

This year marks the 30th anniversary of the Nike Air Max 90. For Air Max Day 2020 on March 26, Nike paid homage to the countless Air Max releases over the years with multiple new colourways and iterations. The standout from this lineup is the Nike Air Max 2090. The bold-looking sneaker takes cues from the Air Max 90, from its big visible Air bubble to its pared-down silhouette.