SOLE PREDICTIONS: ANTHEA POULOS
Sneaker culture, classic kicks + trends to avoid
Words: Nhlanhla Masemola | Images: Instagram
2019 was a big year for sneakers. The fashion industry had countless collabs from the chrome-coloured Raf Simons x adidas Ozweego to the Reebok x adidas Instapump Fury Boost. 2019 fashion runways from Versace to Valentino had every iteration of sneakers imaginable, issuing bold silhouettes and pops of colours that demanded a double-take. With the explosion of interest in streetwear culture, we're turning to sneaker experts and the coolest collectors of kicks to talk us through where sneaker culture is at and where it's headed. We sat down to talk to The Bread’s cofounder and director Anthea Poulos for her take on what to keep our eyes on in 2020 and beyond.
What is your opinion on the state of sneaker culture at the moment?
It’s so tricky. As someone who has always loved sneakers, I’ve become quite disconnected from the culture. I guess this is for a couple of reasons. With the increased accessibility of everything, the ultimate chase or search for something isn’t really there anymore. It’s a lot more related now to how much you’re willing to spend on buying from a reseller or how long you’re willing to wait in line. With that said, I also acknowledge that I’m getting older so there’s a new generation of patient young people to take my slot.
And what about the nature of hype? Is it the same as it’s always been?
I think the biggest difference is that we used to really have to wait a long time for stuff. Drops weren’t frequent and availability wasn’t great, so we knew we really had to save up and wait. The excitement was real. Nowadays, it’s five or six drops every weekend. It’s virtually impossible to keep up with. The hype is there, I think it’s just changed with social media and Instagram in particular. Everything is hyped, but the excitement comes and goes really quickly. The drops are coming too thick and fast to get the opportunity to really be hyped about anything.
The fashion industry is currently at a crossroads between streetwear, sneaker culture and luxury fashion. Do you think these spheres will ever separate again?
My gut reaction is “not really”. I think with the young bulk of the market that’s willing to spend on these brands, there’s a real focus on comfort and style that makes practical sense. But on the other hand, as with everything in life, once you get what you want, you want something else. I’d say that at some point the trend will shift towards formal or smart wear as a response to the extreme casual nature of streetwear, but who knows when that will be. For now, I think it’s here to stay. Even once it’s moved on, there will still be diehard fans.
What sneaker do you own that you’re loving at the moment?
I’m really more focused on comfort these days. I’ve definitely given up on super hot, unbreathable and uncomfortable shoes. At the moment, I’m loving my off-white Vans Era. They’re kind of classic and go with everything. I also really love my Nike Cortez. They’re my go-tos on any other day, specifically my pink and red pair.
And what do you look for in a sneaker? How many pairs do you own?
I’ll never buy anything that isn’t comfortable. Other than that, I wear a lot of black, so I use sneakers as statement pieces, which means I’m into anything exciting that catches my eye. From innovative textiles and use of colour to simple lines, it’s all mood dependent. At the moment I have about 150 pairs. This is crazy, I know, but I recently parted with maybe 60 to 80 pairs, so I’m feeling a little better about it. My new rule is "one in, one out". If I buy a new pair, I have to give one away.
What do you believe makes a classic sneaker a classic?
What makes any piece of design timeless? Usually simple lines or, in other cases, if someone uses a particular line or style for the first time. I think there are classics that stretch from a Vans Era to a Chuck Taylor, Stan Smith, Cortez and PUMA Basket and then for me an Air Max 97 is one of the most iconic designs out there.
What do you think sneakers will look like for the rest of the year? Do you think there’s a general trend that will dominate?
I think the super-distressed and chunky vibes from Margiela, Balenciaga, Nike, Versace, etc, will stick around for a while, but I also see a huge resurgence back to much simpler classic styles, too, such as Vans slip-ons or a New Balance 574.
What current sneaker trends do you think everyone should walk away from?
I know I said I have 150 pairs, but I should’ve clarified that some of those have been in my collection for 15 years. Our buying habits are too wild and we just have too much stuff — this is something I’m working on, too. Walk away from feeling that you need every pair. Sometimes it’s okay to love how something looks and not have to own it. Choose better.
Besides the big names in the game, which sneaker brands do you think are gaining momentum?
This would probably count as a big brand elsewhere in the world, but I think it’s still slowly growing here and that’s Veja. They have beautifully clean and classic styles. The colour choices are bold but simple, the shoe is comfortable and affordable and beyond all that, they’re probably doing the best in the conscious/sustainable area, so I think this is really one to watch. It’s probably the most on-foot sneaker I see when I’m travelling internationally.
What’s one thing you think people get wrong about sneakers?
They buy what they think they’re supposed to buy and what their friends or the media tell them is cool. Sneakers come in a million shapes and styles and can be a real marker of your personal style. Choose something you love. Honestly, there’s no right or wrong. Except for fakes. Just do you. You don’t need the most expensive or most hyped, just get what makes sense to you.