THE RUNWAY REPORT

Words: Daniël Geldenhuys | Images: Getty + Instagram

The Balenciaga show captured and condensed all the feels into one unnerving spectacle. Models marched across a black stage awash with shallow water: above them, a digital sky showed thunderous clouds that crackled and morphed into a planet-like sphere of molten lava, concluding with a foreboding eclipse. The clothing evoked narratives around strict state security and mind-morphing sects. Looking into the models’ demonic eyes (are the dilated black contact lenses branded Balenciaga?) struck a visceral fear, because designer Demna Gvasalia’s dystopian fantasy felt increasingly in tune with reality.

The past month of international fashion weeks (New York, London, Milan and Paris) can be summarised as a series of coping mechanisms for a looming apocalypse. Some, like Gvasalia at Balenciaga and Marine Serre, faced the issue head-on. Elsewhere, Stella McCartney and John Galliano for Maison Margiela doubled down on their sustainable design efforts. Sometimes the answer was a focus on modern classics as seen at Victoria Beckham and Chloé. Other times it was an escapist fantasy (Area) or a masterclass in youthful party dressing (Miu Miu).

Editors fled Milan and its growing Coronavirus diagnoses, landing in Paris as news broke of Harvey Weinstein’s conviction. There could be no better celebration than Maria Grazia Chiuri’s Dior show. Above the runway hung neon signage by the anonymous collective known as Claire Fontaine that read “Consent. Consent. Consent.”, “Women’s Love is Unpaid Labour” and “Patriarchy = climate emergency”. The collection referenced Chiuri’s feminist awakening in the 70s, complete with Coachella-ready headscarves and the designer’s signature by-women-for-women wearability.

JW Anderson’s “Nouveau Chic” collection was a fascinating investigation into the intersection of creative form and practicality. The designer said he’d been thinking about what it means to make an entrance, resulting in a collection of contemporary statements, both constrained and heightened by their self-awareness. Another British designer who continues to redefine desirability is Simone Rocha. Filtering an antique feminine beauty through a modern lens makes for a spellbinding collection of contemporary heirlooms. Rocha once again served a perfect balance between the ornate and the practical, offering some of the most unique takes on the season’s hit pieces – the statement coat, the trouser suit and the (not-so-little) black dress.

Women who consider themselves of a certain age as well as moderate dressers will appreciate Dries van Noten’s bold sense of sophistication. Tastemakers take note. The coolest brand on earth right now is Bottega Veneta, where special emphasis was placed on fringe-detail dresses and bags. Kanye West made a Yeezy comeback, which doubled as 6-year-old North’s live performance debut: A Star Is Born memes were quick to follow and KKW is already modelling the clothes on her insta. Miuccia Prada showed her final collection as solo creative director and three days after the show, news broke that she’ll be partnering with Raf Simons, an unprecedented move that promises to be a historic and deeply influential fashion partnership.

Seeing Thebe Magugu’s lookbook on Vogue Runway right next to Maison Margiela, a few spaces along from Saint Laurent, should ignite an ecstatic pride in the heart of any South African. The LVMH prize winner from Johannesburg treated Paris to “Ipopeng Ext.”, a photo exhibition. Representation is key for Magugu: Ipopeng is the township he grew up in and the location for his new-season lookbook, which served as content for the exhibition. Trading a runway show for a photo exhibition meant that Magugu’s representation of South Africa was more tangible than in an abstract design concept. Attendees from across the globe were able to see a snapshot of South African life. Models posed alongside the designer’s family and friends, in a hair salon or at school. The corrugated iron roof-print shirt with matching trousers with feather trim is a stand-out look. The trench coat, assorted knitwear, signature pleated skirts and suiting were all injected with Magugu’s intellectually desirable detailing. The collection delivers on the promise of the LVMH prize and hints at so much more to come. All this to say: we could not ask for a better ambassador.