FASHION’S NEW MOOD

Words: Leila Petersen | Images: Supplied

Many sectors are reeling from the fallout of the COVID-19 pandemic and fashion has not been spared. Affected at every level from production to store closures as well as demand, the industry is also facing lasting structural changes, which will in turn shape customer behaviour, the fashion calendar and people's style. While WFH, social distancing and wearing face masks are all gradually becoming part of our new normal, the pandemic has also forced us to take things a bit slower, relook our lives and rethink our values. With that in mind, we reached out to some the top fashion insiders at Superbalist HQ to share some of the big transformations they see on the horizon. Is it all doom and gloom or are these changes the silver lining that the industry has long needed?

Fashion trends have always been dictated by fashion weeks and seasons. Do you think this will be the case going forward?

For years the international fashion calendar was jam-packed with seasonal, pre-season and in-between-season collections, pushing designers, consumers and the industry as a whole to its limits. We've seen an over-production of fashion and as a direct result of this, the fashion and textile manufacturing industry is the second largest polluter in the world, after oil pollution. Things quite obviously have to change. Trends should no longer be the leading influencing factor for fashion, but rather an answer to the challenges the world and its unique environments are facing.

What other major shifts in fashion do you foresee?

People will put a lot more thought into their purchasing decisions. With limitations in travel and tourism, we will have to look locally and support smaller businesses and, in turn, reinvigorate our economy.

As the world battles against the many negative effects of COVID-19, do fashion trends seem rather ostentatious now?

Trends are now not so much about an aesthetic appeal, but about individual life needs. As everybody's lives have been affected differently and will continue to be, some people will turn back to fashion as a form of an escape; others will cocoon in their version of comfort.

Is this the end of fast fashion as we know it? And where to next?

While there will definitely be a shift in the speed at which fashion is produced, the speed at which fashion is consumed is not slowing down anytime soon. Social media platforms, especially TikTok and Instagram, have benefitted from online shopping too, allowing their followers to access and shop the brands they love.

Fashion trends have always been dictated by fashion weeks and seasons. Do you think this will be the case going forward?

Yes, the fashion weeks and seasons will continue to play a role in setting fashion trends. Just as retailers are adjusting their offering and assortment to the customer’s current needs, so will the big fashion houses.

How has WFH affected consumer behaviour towards fashion and shopping?

WFH seems to be the new normal and might even become a permanent situation for many. This in itself will have a massive impact on the types of fashion consumers will invest in – think quality and comfortable basics that create a more casual aesthetic. Being home will mean online shopping will become second nature and therefore retailers will need to really up their game and create platforms that are both safe and easy to use.

Much more thought is being put into purchasing decisions. Could this be the rise of a more conscious customer?

The COVID-19 pandemic has increased the consumer’s awareness, from health issues to environmental sustainability. This will lead the consumer to further understand the impact of their purchasing decisions on the economy and local community as well as the environment. Millennials and Gen Zs are probably the most conscious bunch and represent a great part of the consumer landscape.

Is this the end of fast fashion as we know it? And where to next?

Not quite. What we will see is an increased call-out for comfort wear, not a total disappearance for dressing up (smart fashion). Both these types of fashion can still be run on a fast-fashion model. Case in point? Lebron James’ shorts suit with a shirt – a very comfortable ensemble that garnered plenty of interest. So just because it is lounge and comfort wear, it doesn't mean it can't be fast fashion.

Designers have been forced to rethink how they showcase fashion. Is this the end of fashion weeks as we know them?

Fashion weeks as well as trade shows have definitely been affected. To be honest, the runway recipe was starting to feel a bit tired and I think designers are now being pushed to showcase their ranges more creatively and in a more interesting way, which is rather refreshing. Leading the pack with regards to a digital showing was Prada. Not only did they raise the bar in terms of how it can be be done (and the positive environmental impact it has as no one is flying to the show), they managed to start the democratisation of the fashion industry. All of a sudden anyone and everyone has a front row seat from the comfort of their couch. And while this is not the end of fashion shows, fashion weeks will definitely never be the same. Gucci’s Alessandro Michele has gone even further calling it a "worn out ritual" and rather opting for a more seasonless and genderless approach and scaling down to two shows instead of five for the year. I feel many will follow suit.

What other major shifts in fashion do you foresee?

Many of the "shifts" are more accelerations of trends than anything completely new. Of course, the accelerations have been quite significant and in parts totally overwhelming, but the move to more contactless ways of operating as well as online purchasing and home deliveries will continue to grow. Working from anywhere will become part of the new normal. Embracing a circular economy and extending the life cycle of clothing will become an increasing priority... or so I hope! There are a lot of exciting developments happening in more sustainable and alternative fabrics such as sea wool made from oyster shells, natural dyeing processes and using a lot of food waste as resources. All good developments for a more sustainable and responsible fashion industry, which I find very exciting.

How will consumer behaviour influence and drive the fashion landscape?

The customer will be playing a much bigger role in the industry – they vote with their spend. There has been a renewed interest in supporting locally made products, especially during the pandemic, which is great to see. I'm also hoping the support for more conscious fashion continues and becomes the new normal in time.

How has the pandemic changed the aesthetic of fashion?

Let’s just say that the demand for loungewear, sleepwear and active gear has kicked up a few notches. This weeks' New York Times even had "Sweatpants Forever" on the cover and the sales of the lockdown uniform have increased exponentially worldwide. For a while, there was a move towards a smarter aesthetic, but I think it is safe to say that athleisure is back. Having said that, I do feel that eventually that sweatpant fatigue may set in, especially as we head into our warmer seasons.

Fashion trends have always been dictated by fashion weeks and seasons. Do you think this will be the case going forward?

While there have been some changes in terms of fashion shows (mostly that the physical shows could not happen, but let's remember that the real audience for shows has been online since designers started posting their shows on the web), most brands still showed their collections online in the form of a lookbook/movie or some kind of presentation. So I think there was a lot of hype when the likes of Gucci announced the end of seasons and shows, but in reality, these are big businesses that need to generate hype and sell their collections. Seasonless has become a buzzword in the industry, but the real issue has been that the delivery and markdown periods have been out of sync with when customers actually wear seasonally appropriate items, so the brands started including contra-seasonal product in their ranges in order to maximise sales and have called it "seasonless".

What other shifts in fashion do you foresee?

I think customers have reassessed what they actually need, rather than just buying in a frivolous manner. I think people want to wear items that will last a few seasons and faddish fashion is feeling wasteful and irresponsible. But sweatpants and basics are quite bland and people enjoy expressing themselves through clothing, so it doesn't mean that fashion will become boring.

How will consumer behaviour influence and drive the fashion landscape?

The big question is: when will customers stop buying more than what they need and rather start investing in things that will last? We have become a society addicted to instant gratification and novelty. I think COVID-19 has started that process of customers rethinking their lives and reevaluating what’s most important, ie, the planet and people.

High fashion and trends have almost become an afterthought as consumers are lean towards an easy, minimalistic aesthetic. Do you think this is a short or long-term response?

I think that fad trends are going to be less wanted and with the rising consciousness in Gen Z, it will be seen as irresponsible and maybe even unfashionable. But also, there will always be a place for luxury (true high fashion) as there is a lot of money sitting in that customer segment. Truth is that most high fashion brands do already operate in a more sustainable way; its their influence on fast fashion that is the real issue – cheap knock-offs, poorly made and sold at a low cost. That is what's causing most of the damage to the planet.